Our friend Michelle has kindly offered to provide us with festive inspiration for cheeseboards from chef Claude Bosi and Jessica Summers, founder of Mouse & Grape.
And a delightful Comté recipe from Syvain Jamois, who along with fellow chef Milo Waterfield, cooks for guests on all of the Cheese Journeys tours. This is from the Jura leg of their Alpine tour.
Cheese Journeys was founded by cheesemonger Anna Juhl, and takes people on cheese trips of a lifetime. They have several journeys in France, including to the Jura (where Comté is made), Savoie, Paris and Bourgogne. Cheese Journeys is a luxury travel brand that curates unique, culinary experiences for artisan cheese, food and wine enthusiasts.
https://www.cheesejourneys.com
This is the recipe for Confit Duck Parmentier
serves 6
For the filling
6 confit duck legs
6 shallots, chopped
Small bunch of thyme, leaves stripped and chopped
1 ¼ c red wine
1 ¼ c duck or chicken stock
Handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
For the topping
2.5 lb mashing potatoes, peeled and cut into approx 5cm pieces
⅔ cup warm milk
2.5 oz butter
2.5 oz Comté cheese, grated
Warm the confit duck legs over a gentle heat to release the fat, then pour the fat into a clean jar. You will need some for this dish, but save the rest for roasting potatoes another day.
Boil the potatoes in salted water for 20–25 minutes until tender. Drain them well and let them steam off for a few minutes in the colander then add the warm milk, butter and cheese and mash until smooth. Check seasoning and add salt and black pepper, as required.
Remove the skin from the duck legs and discard it (or slice and roast until crisp as a nibble - these are known as Grattons). Pull away the duck meat from the legs with a couple of forks and shred it, removing and discarding any bones and gristle.
Melt 3 tablespoons of duck fat in a pan, add the shallots, thyme, a pinch of salt and plenty of black pepper. Allow the shallots to brown gently and, once they are golden, add the wine and stock, then bring to the boil. Cook for a few minutes, then add the duck meat and the chopped parsley. Check for seasoning, stir and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 190°c fan. Spoon the meat mixture into a baking dish then cover with the mashed potatoes. Bake for about 25 minutes until heated through and browned on top.
The cut of duck used for Duck Confit are duck legs. It is the lower leg plus the thigh attached, a poultry cut known as a maryland here in Australia.
It must be bone-in and with the skin on. Because it ain’t Duck Confit without crispy skin!
Why not try some unusual pairings with your continental cheeses this Christmas?
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Claude has carefully selected his festive favourites as; 48 month aged Comté, Fourme d’Ambert and Saint-Marcellin. His choices are applauded by wine and cheese pairing expert Jessica Summer, founder of Mouse and Grape, who holds an Academy of Cheese certification. Below Jessica shares unusual pairings for the three cheeses that are sure to surprise and thrill your guests.
Aged Comté has the moreish nuttiness of a younger Comté but with flavours of sweet, dried fruits perfectly balanced with savoury notes. As it ages its texture becomes more crystalline and even more appealing on the bite. Charcuterie works very well and for an extra special touch, I’d propose thin slices of spiced, cured venison. For something a little different I’d also serve with a plate of festive biscuit such as a Lebkuchen or gingerbread cookies. Depending on your tastes, you can pair Comté with an Oaked White Rioja, Dry Oloroso Sherry (very festive!) and Appassimento wines.
Fourme d’Ambert is a soft creamy cheese which has the slightly salty flavours and musty aroma of blue cheese but is less overpowering than Roquefort or Stilton. For a truly indulgent accompaniment a touch of truffle honey will have guests oohing and aahing at every mouthful. For added texture try serving with chocolate honeycomb. If you are still looking to enjoy that festive port, a Tawny port would pair perfectly with Fourme d’Ambert but I’d also recommend a Bordeaux Blend or a Sparkling Rosé if you prefer something lighter or are enjoying earlier in the day.
Saint-Marcellin is a white rind cheese which can be enjoyed at all levels of maturity and becomes runnier as it ages. The cheese melts in the mouth with a slightly salty taste, a nice freshness, and flavours of fresh milk and hazelnut. To cut through the creamy richness of the cheese, serve with a bright red cherry chutney - which will not only provide a delicious pairing but will make a striking contribution to your cheese board aesthetic.
Wine-wise a Champagne or Crémant, Pinot Noir or even something as deep as a Barolo would all complement perfectly this delicious creamy cheese.