Tuesday, 20 September 2011

Yellow gold jewellery in abundance at Goldsmiths' Fair



Gold necklace by Kayo Saito

Innovative yellow gold jewellery by designer-makers in abundance at Goldsmiths’ Fair 2011

At Goldsmiths’ Hall
Week One - Monday, September 26 to Sunday, October 2
Week Two - Tuesday, October 4 to Sunday, October 9

A visit to Goldsmiths’ Fair 2011 at Goldsmiths’ Hall in the City of London which opens on Monday September 26 will leave you in no doubt that gold, particularly yellow gold, remains a firm favourite with jewellers. In fact Goldsmiths’ Fair is the place to go if you are looking for stylish, innovative and original gold jewellery.

Not only has gold been hitting the headlines recently with its rise in price, it has also been making a come-back on the fashion runways and yellow gold jewellery is back in vogue as the ultimate luxury accessory.

Several jewellers at Goldsmiths’ Fair make no excuses for working purely in rich yellow gold. First time exhibitor Sheila Teague of jewellery duo Wright and Teague, says: “I try not to be inhibited by the cost and think only in terms of the sculptural beauty, tactility and versatility that gold allows.”

Other jewellers who share her viewpoint are Polly Gasston who works exclusively in 22 carat gold to create her bold strong confident jewellery which is influenced by ancient goldsmiths but still totally contemporary and relevant in style.

Disa Allsopp, whose latest collection is dominated by yellow gold jewellery said: “I am finding that my clients regard gold as an investment. They admire the precious quality of the material and find it even more desirable when combined with innovative design and craftsmanship.”

David Lamb, Managing Director, Jewellery at the World Gold Council, commented: "{{The upcoming Goldsmiths Fair will highlight how the craftsman's oldest and most precious metal is continuing to inspire the jewellers of today and tomorrow. Gold's unique properties enable innovative jewellery design and the goldsmiths who will be showing at the Fair this year, will demonstrate that high manufacturing standards and craftsmanship are alive and well."

In fact the World Gold Council has recently observed various trends in yellow gold jewellery, many of which are much in evidence at Goldsmiths’ Fair. Texture and colour for example play a key part. The former can be achieved through various techniques such as hammering, forging and reticulation. Tina Engell for instance uses the ancient technique of cuttlefish bone casting to create rings which are left with a rich grainy finish made by the mould which she feels accentuates the natural beauty and warmth of the gold.

In contrast braided gold wire is taken to extraordinary lengths in the hands of Catherine Martin who has adapted traditional Japanese silk braiding textile techniques which she learnt in Japan to make her exquisite jewellery. Each of her jewels is meticulously hand-braided using the finest gold wire. Catherine sometimes weaves platinum wire in with the gold and occasionally incorporates tiny twinkling diamonds to heighten the effect. Likewise Andrew Lamb uses precious gold and silver wires in his jewellery, creating pieces by layering, twisting and overlapping these ‘threads’ to create rippling textures and subtle colour variations, playfully drawing in the viewer and creating a moment of surprise.

Falling in the trend of precious and delicate, new exhibitor to the Fair Beth Gilmour makes highly attractive gold jewellery which is often described as intricate and elegant and it is no surprise that she is influenced by organic leaf patterns and vintage lace.

Gold as the new jewel is also much in evidence at the Fair with many jewellers using yellow gold as a design feature or ornamentation. Katherine Baird for example uses gold detailing in combination with silver to highlight the importance of 'the line' in her work, as do Olivia Schlevogt and Shivani Patel. Award winning jeweller Jacqueline Cullen has developed a unique technique to enable her to add gold granulation to her fabulous jewellery made from inky black Whitby Jet. Her effective use of 18 carat gold granulation emulates the flow of molten gold lava from crevices of a volcano.

The high price of gold has also forced jewellers to become more resourceful and creative in finding new ways of getting the “gold” look but still keeping costs down. For instance Melissa Rigby uses her own technique of fusing fine coloured gold and silver leaf with vitreous enamel (ground glass), while Jane Adam uses an unusual material for some of her pieces – bimetal, which comprises a thick layer of 18 carat gold fused to sterling silver. Like Melissa, Jane has developed her own unique method of scribing through the gold and oxidising the exposed silver lines to create a fascinating, textured surface.

Come and be seduced by the great variety of dazzling gold jewellery on sale at Goldsmiths’ Fair 2011

FACTFILE:

Week One - Monday, September 26 to Sunday, October 2
Week Two - Tuesday, October 4 to Sunday, October 9
Closed Monday October 3 for change over of exhibitors
11am to 7.00pm Monday to Friday (last entry 6.30pm)
10am to 6.00pm Saturday and Sunday (last entry 5.30pm)
Entrance by catalogue purchasable on the door (£7 for one week, £12 for two weeks)

• The 29th annual Goldsmiths’ Fair (first Fair took place in 1983)
• A selling exhibition open to the public and trade.
• 90 exhibitors each week (107 jewellers and 61 silversmiths)
• All the exhibitors are vetted by the Goldsmiths’ Company
• 10 recent graduates have been granted a stand, a loan and a bursary by the Goldsmiths’ Company
• Prices range from £60 upwards to £16,000
• All the silver and precious metal jewellery is hallmarked by one of the four UK Assay Offices.

WHERE?
Goldsmiths’ Hall,
Foster Lane,
London EC2V 6BN
Tel: 020 7606 7010
www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk
Licensed Café on site offering drinks and refreshments throughout the day.

NEAREST UNDERGROUND STATIONS:
St Paul’s, Mansion House, Barbican, Bank
BUSES:
8, 11, 25, 100, 242, 56, 521

www.whoswhoingoldandsilver.com
The Goldsmiths’ Company’s on-line directory for jewellery, silver and works of art enables the public to browse on line to make contact with the maker of their choice. With more than 300 craftsmen, all approved by the Goldsmiths’ Company, the website is the ultimate resource for any requirement in precious metal.

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